Mastering the Tuxedo – Old Money Style

When it comes to timeless fashion, few garments rival the tuxedo. But wearing one isn’t just about putting on a suit – it’s an art, a statement, and a nod to a legacy of understated elegance. If you’re looking to channel the sophistication of old-money style, here’s your ultimate guide to mastering the tuxedo.

1. Understand the Foundations of Old-Money Style

Old-money style is all about quiet luxury. It's about wearing high-quality garments with impeccable tailoring and avoiding anything too flashy or ostentatious. When it comes to a tuxedo, this philosophy translates into:

• Classic Cuts: Opt for a traditional silhouette with a single-breasted jacket and peak or shawl lapels. Double-breasted styles are also acceptable but less common for formal evening wear.

• Black or Midnight Blue: These are your go-to colors. Midnight blue offers a subtle, refined alternative to black that looks incredible under evening lighting.

Key Rule: Skip the trendy slim-fit cuts. Old money prioritizes comfort and proper tailoring over fast fashion.

2. Choose Fabrics Wisely

The devil is in the details. Old-money tuxedos are defined by their fabrics:

• Wool: Stick with 100% wool, as it drapes beautifully and exudes elegance.

• Silk Accents: Ensure the lapels, buttons, and pocket trims are crafted from pure silk, not synthetic materials.

• Natural Linings: Silk or satin linings will not only feel luxurious but also elevate the overall quality.

Pro Tip: Velvet dinner jackets are an acceptable variation for black-tie events during the colder months, but always pair them with black wool trousers.

3. The Art of the Shirt

Your shirt should be pristine and tailored. Look for:

• White Piqué or Poplin Fabric: A textured bib front is a hallmark of formalwear.

• French Cuffs: These require cufflinks, an essential accessory in the old-money playbook.

• Wing or Spread Collar: Avoid button-down collars, which are too casual for a tuxedo.

4. Accessories Make the Difference

Old-money style thrives on restraint. When it comes to tuxedo accessories, think minimal but meaningful:

• Bow Tie: Always self-tie. Pre-tied options are a giveaway of inexperience.

• Pocket Square: Crisp white linen or silk, folded simply – no elaborate puffing.

• Cufflinks: Choose heirloom-quality metals like platinum, gold, or mother-of-pearl. Avoid loud logos.

• Shoes: Patent leather oxfords or velvet slippers are the gold standard. Make sure they’re polished to perfection.

• Watch: If you must wear one, keep it slim and discreet. A classic dress watch is best.

5. The Fit is Everything

Even the most expensive tuxedo will look cheap if it doesn’t fit properly.

• Tailoring: Always have your tuxedo adjusted by a professional tailor. The shoulders should fit perfectly, and the trousers should have a slight break.

• Comfort: Your tuxedo should move with you. Avoid anything too tight or restrictive.

Old-Money Rule: The goal is to look effortlessly elegant, as if the tuxedo was made for you (because it should be).

6. Mastering Etiquette

Style is more than clothing – it’s about how you carry yourself.

• Confidence: Old-money style is never self-conscious. Wear your tuxedo with quiet assurance.

• Knowledge: Understand the event’s dress code. Black tie is formal but not white-tie – know the difference.

• Charm: The best-dressed man in the room is also the most gracious. Compliment others and avoid flaunting your wealth.

Old Money Brands to Consider

While you can have your tuxedo custom-made, these heritage brands are known for their timeless craftsmanship:

• Savile Row Tailors: Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole & Co.

• Italian Elegance: Brioni, Kiton, Zegna.

• Shoes: Crockett & Jones, Church’s, or Berluti.

The Takeaway

The key to mastering the tuxedo with old-money style lies in subtlety, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. It's not about being the flashiest person in the room; it's about exuding quiet confidence and impeccable taste.

By investing in quality, respecting tradition, and paying attention to detail, you’ll embody the sophistication of generations past – and set the standard for those to come.